Off the Beaten Path in Paris
A Stroll Through Its Islands and Covered Arcades
Greetings, dear friend!
I hope this message finds you well and enjoying life!
It's been a while since I last reached out through this newsletter, and for that, I owe you an apology. The last month has swept me up in the whirlwind of writing my next book, a journey both exhilarating and time-consuming. I missed you and am happy to reconnect with you.
Let’s discover today a few secret places in Paris that you may not know yet.
Paris, otherwise known as the City of Light, isn't just about its headline acts—the Eiffel Tower getting struck by lightning or the Louvre with its glass pyramid and slightly underwhelming Mona Lisa. Nope, the real Paris, which the guidebooks only flirt with, lies tucked away on islands and beneath the roofs of old shopping galleries. So, grab a croissant and let's tiptoe through a Paris less travelled but no less intriguing.
Three Parisian Islands
1. Île de la Cité Precisely in the middle of the Seine, Île de la Cité isn't just another pretty face with a couple of heavy-hitters like Notre Dame and Sainte-Chapelle. It's the blockbuster historical site where Paris decided to spring up and grow.
If you like flowers, don't miss the Marché aux Fleurs on the Île de la Cité. It was renamed in honour of Queen Elizabeth II after her visit. Mum remembers her frail figure, all dressed in rose, standing among flowers a few years back. The weather was as bad as today, but she seemed happy and a little embarrassed when a bouquet of flowers, almost bigger than herself, was offered to her. Now, amidst the bursts of colour and fragrances that could knock away a cat, you'll find a plaque commemorating her 2004 visit. It's a little like finding a blue plaque in London but surrounded by more petals and probably a few bees. It's a charming spot, where the past lingers delicately in the air, much like the scent of peonies, promising a Paris that's both endlessly enchanting and mildly amusing in its dedication to commemorating royal visits with gardening supplies.
The flower market becomes the bird's market on Sundays. Yes, actual birds and I strongly disagree. Those lovely feathery things should be let to fly free around. I saw a cat brigade secretly patrolling around; one day, I may join them and help free all the birds.
2. Île Saint-Louis Just a hop and a skip over a quaint bridge from Île de la Cité, Île Saint-Louis is where you go to see how Parisians would live if they were all 17th-century poets or retired aristocrats. The streets are quiet, the buildings charming, and there's even an ice cream shop, Berthillon, that, by local laws, you must visit. It's possibly the best in Paris, but let's keep that between us to avoid a tourist stampede.
3. Île aux Cygnes Ever felt like Paris needed a more New York vibe? Well, Île aux Cygnes is your answer, complete with its own smaller Statue of Liberty looking wistfully back towards her bigger sister in the States. This slim island is an ideal spot for a sunset stroll away from the chaos of city traffic. It's like a secret garden with better views and less gardening required.
If this were Rome, cats would invade it by thousands. But Mum said she never spotted any; just in case there would be one, she always brings treats in her bag.
The Undercover Charms of Parisian Covered Passages
Leaving the islands behind, if you dive into Paris's covered passages, you're stepping back into the 19th century. They are perfect for a stroll on rainy, cold days and offer shade and a bit of coolness in a hot summer.
These glass-ceilinged wonders are where the Parisians of yesteryear did their shopping, gossiping and probably flirting. The most beautiful are:
1. Passage des Panoramas. This is the granddaddy of them all. Opened way back when folks were still getting over the French Revolution, Passage des Panoramas is a hotspot for anyone who loves things that the internet hasn't quite replaced— old books, stamps and postcards. It's crammed with quaint eateries. It is the perfect spot to eavesdrop on philosophical debates or catch up on local scandals.
2. Galerie Vivienne. Just a stone's throw from the Palais Royal, Galerie Vivienne might win the prize for the prettiest of Paris's passages. Its delicate mosaic floors and iron and glass roof make it like walking through a well-preserved Victorian novel. Boutique shopping here is a must, even if you're only window shopping.
3. Passage Jouffroy. Built in the heyday of the 1840s, Passage Jouffroy is a mixtape of old and new. It houses the Grévin Wax Museum, where you can mingle with wax celebrities, which is less creepy than it sounds. The passage is filled with toy shops, bookstores, and a charming hotel. It's a beautiful place to wander through, pretending you're a Parisian needing a new wax figure for the living room.
Exploring these secret spots offers a deeper slice of Parisian life, past and present. And it's a reminder that sometimes the best parts of a city are those that don't make it onto postcards. So step off the well-trodden path, dodge the usual tourist traps, and discover a Paris that's as enchanting as it is real. And who knows? You may even debate existentialism over a stamp collection in Passage des Panoramas. Wouldn't that be something?
More secret places from Paris in my next Newsletter. Since then, enjoy the new week and month, hoping the weather will be sunny and warm - for a change.
Your loving writer,
Freddy
That was very interesting indeed I love reading about hidden gems like these. Very descriptive informative and atmospheric too.❤️
That's so atmospheric! I really want to visit even more now.....